The Jewish temple is situated not far from the Scali degli Olandesi, on the opposite bank of the Fosso Reale in the spacious Piazza Benamozegh. It was designed by the architect Angelo Di Castro and built on the site of the old Synagogue which was partly destroyed during the last world war. The temple was completed in 1962.
The law known as the “Livornina” was instituted by Grand Duke Ferdinand I to encourage the settlement of merchants from any nation or religion in the new town; in particular, this gave Jewish people the right to live in the towns of Pisa and Livorno where, unlike other Tuscan towns, no ghettos grew up. In fact Jews were not bound by the azakà contract which only allowed them to make use of property; instead they bought real estate and thus became part of the urban structure. An actual synagogue was built in Livorno in 1603 to a design by Claudio Cogorano who was in charge of the Civil Building Office, and Alessandro Pieroni, responsible for the military one.
The initial structure was rather modest and simple, but the increasing numbers of Jews in the town made it necessary to enlarge the building in the 17th century. In 1642 a large prayer room with two tiers of galleries was constructed, designed by Francesco Cantagallina, and from the second half of the 17th century the synagogue was enriched with various furnishings. In 1700 the Jewish community of Livorno asked the Grand Duke to further extend the temple, and as a result the interior was completely demolished and rebuilt with the women’s galleries arranged on three sides. Additional work to enlarge and furnish the synagogue was carried out during the 19th century. Around 1926 the two 17th-century buildings that stood beside the synagogue were demolished.
The bombings of 1944 partially destroyed the temple, and after the war a lengthy debate began about whether to rebuild it where it was and as it was, or to construct a completely new building. It was partly because of the intervention of Bruno Zevi, then a member of the Higher Council of Public Works, that the issue passed from the competence of the Livornese community to that of the Union of Jewish Communities. The latter saw the building of a new synagogue in Livorno as a chance to raise a monument to Jewish vitality after the tragedy of the war.
This was to take on a symbolic significance because it involved a large, long-standing community with a great rabbinical tradition. Architect Di Castro designed a building reminiscent in form of the Tabernacle, or the Great Tent, used to contain the Ark of the Covenant. This was similar to contemporary post-war designs, especially German ones. The supporting structure is made of massive concrete ribbing enclosing panels with octagonal windows and the prism-shaped apse. The latter features tiny triangular openings which create an enchanting flicker of light. Inside, the seating is arranged in tiers descending towards the centre, where the tevà stands.
The latter was made with parts of the original one. The aròn dates from 1708 and came from the synagogue of Pesaro; it is a splendid example of Baroque cabinet work. The women’s gallery is located on a balcony to the rear. The 17th-century tevà and aròn in the Lampronti Oratory on the floor below were brought from the Spanish temple in Ferrara.
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