San Donato church is an authentic Romanesque jewel, also thanks to 19th-century restoration works carried by Alfredo De Andrade, who not only made a number of alterations, but also had the post 16th-century plaster layers removed. The octagonal bell tower of this church, clearly visible from Stradone di Sant’Agostino, is especially beautiful, as are the aisle columns, some featuring Roman capitals, and all different depending on the stage of the enlargement or renovation of the church. The triptych of the Adoration of the Magi by the Flemish painter Joos van Cleve dated 1515 and the Holy Family by Domenico Piola dating back to the second half of the 17th century are both well worth seeing. The layout of this church is that of a typical Christian basilica, as per Genoese traditions, i.e. with a central nave, two side aisles and an apse. Four rings from as many of Pisa’s enemy ships captured during the Meloria battle of 1284 were once nailed to the lintel. Though open during the day, this church is charming both in the evening and at night, partly because of the nightlife that fills the neighbouring streets with young people and partly because of the ‘Ghost of San Donato’, aka Stefano Raggi, a 17th-century nobleman who lived next to the church and was executed for a number of different crimes. Apparently, on autumn evenings his ghost, clad in a bright red robe, has been seen leaning mournfully against a column.
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