Iseo & Franciacorta

At the foot of Val Camonica, framed by the Prealps between the provinces of Bergamo and Brescia, lies Lake Iseo. A little gem that shines with the charm of its small villages, its picturesque restaurants and its gentle hills covered in the vineyards that have made Franciacorta one of the most famous wine regions in the world.

Thanks to the lake's own microclimate and the fertile soils of glacial origin, the area is home to plants typical of southern climates, such as oleanders, palms, vines and olive trees.

In the middle of the lake rises the largest natural lake island in Italy and the highest lake island in Europe: Monte Isola, flanked by the two islets of Loreto and San Paolo. All around the lake stand the moraine hills, whose main peaks are Monte Guglielmo, Corno Trentapasso, Punta dell'Orto and Corno del Crilì, a small rocky crag from which you can take in the whole area from above.

Inhabited since prehistoric times and later occupied by the Romans, the land around Lake Iseo saw the barbarian invasions, Lombard rule and then Venetian rule. It was freed thanks to the Battle of Solferino and finally found peace with the unification of Italy. In Val Camonica, at Capo di Ponte, you can visit the Naquane National Rock Engravings Park, the first UNESCO World Heritage Site recognized in Italy.

The lake is divided between the Brescia shore and the Bergamo shore, each with its own character. The eastern, Brescia shore is rich in vineyards, orchards, olive groves and flowers, and chestnut woods, set against the soft outlines of the mountains.

The villages along it are Paratico; Iseo, the most important tourist center, famous for its cotton mills; Clusane; Covelo, known for its cave system and its rock-climbing crag; Pilzone, with the Montecolo headland; Sulzano, a fishing village and the departure point for ferries to Monte Isola; and Sale Marasino, with the parish church of San Zenone and Villa Martinengo Villagana, one of the most important historic palaces on the whole lake. Farther up you come to the industrial town of Marone and, farther north still, Pisogne, known for its woodworking.

The western or Bergamo shore has small beaches along the Sarnico–Predore stretch, followed by sheer cliffs and rocky spurs, with the gorges of Castro and Zorzino. Bare rock dominates the area, broken only briefly by vines and olive trees.

One after another come the villages of Tavernola Bergamasca, Parzanica, Riva di Solto, Castro and Lovere, the last two known for their engineering and steel industries. Costa Volpino and Rogno are the last villages at the head of the lake.

It is a many-sided land whose tourism, culture, food and sports never cease to surprise. History and culture lovers can soak up the atmosphere of the past by visiting the castles and charming villages, and by taking in the silence and half-light of the old churches and monasteries, such as the Monastery of San Pietro in Lamosa or the Olivetan Abbey of San Nicola, where the colors of the frescoes telling the stories of the saints are a surprise.

Nature lovers will also have plenty to choose from: trails through the hills, nature parks and reserves, in particular the Torbiere Reserve, a wetland of reed beds and pools considered one of Europe's great havens for birdwatching, where you can set out with binoculars to discover the 17 bird species that nest there.

Not to be missed is a visit to the Abisso Bueno Fonteno: a passage about 20 km long inside a cave between the Sebino (Lake Iseo) and the Valle Cavallina, with a drop of about 500 m, known as the Tunnel Smeraldo.

After enjoying the beauty of the area, don't miss a stop at one of the many places on the lakeshore to linger over the aperitivo ritual, or stay on for a pleasant dinner at the restaurants and agriturismi (farm stays) of the area.

There are plenty of evening events, with concerts, dances and shows, ending with a stroll along the lakefront, made even more magical by the countless lights dotting the villages perched on the surrounding hills.

Around Lake Iseo you can enjoy many winter sports: downhill skiing, cross-country skiing, skating, snowboarding and more. Modern lifts take you to the finest slopes in the area, such as those of Val Palot, Montecampione and Borno on Monte Altissimo, which offers a splendid view of the lake.

Lake Iseo is ideal for lovers of thrilling water sports such as canoeing, diving, sailing, windsurfing, kitesurfing and wakeboarding, but also for those who prefer activities “on dry land,” such as climbing, mountain biking, hiking, horseback riding, golf and tennis.

The food will satisfy even the most demanding palates, built on a successful blend of tradition and skillful handling of raw ingredients. Respect for the land and wholesome produce make for high-quality dishes, in which humble country cooking has been enriched and refined while keeping its Brescia and Bergamo roots.

So there is plenty of polenta and uccelletti (small birds), casoncelli, the local filled ravioli dressed with melted butter and sage, frogs, snails and farmyard meats, always served with polenta. There are many dishes made with the various lake fish: trout, whitefish, bleak, pike and tench. Especially famous is baked tench with polenta, celebrated every July in Clusane d'Iseo, but so are fillets of golden-fried perch and grilled whitefish.

The cheeses made by local farmers in the area's dairies are also excellent: Silter, Casolet, the various robiole and formaggelle, taleggio and Rosa Camuna, made with partly skimmed milk from the Val Camonica pastures and shaped like a rose petal, recalling the rock engravings of Capo di Ponte.

The olive oil, highly aromatic and rich in vitamins, is much prized and takes center stage every spring at the “Dall'olio all'olivo” festival.

Fine wine is produced throughout the area, from white grapes, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Manzoni Bianco, Moscato Giallo, and from red grapes, such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barbera, Marzemino, Schiava Lombarda, Schiava Meranese, Moscato di Scanzo.

The wines made from them are Valcalepio Rosso, ideal with roasts and game; Valcalepio Bianco DOC, perfect as an aperitif and with fish dishes; and Valcalepio Moscato Passito, a sublime match for dry pastries or for aged or blue cheeses such as Gorgonzola.

Franciacorta DOCG is made from Chardonnay and/or Pinot Noir grapes and comes in a wide range of styles: extra brut, brut, extra dry, sec, demi-sec and more. Each of these styles lends itself to all kinds of pairings. Especially prized is Satèn, with its very fine, persistent bubbles, the ultimate expression of the harmony, pleasure and flavor of Franciacorta.