Santa Maria di Leuca

The enchanting land of Salento, the part of Apulia that forms the “heel of the Italian boot”, is completed by Lower Salento. Its main feature is that it is washed by the Adriatic Sea to the east and by the Ionian Sea to the west. Both seas are therefore there for the many swimmers who come every summer for the sun, the clear water and the many kinds of fun on offer.

Santa Maria di Leuca is the geographical point, though not an official one, where the two seas meet. Their water is so clear and transparent that you can almost see your reflection in it. The coasts, on the other hand, suit every taste and every kind of visitor: golden sandy shores alternate with rocky coasts and high cliffs, though only the boldest venture onto these.

A trip through this area can start in the west, on the Ionian side, at Ugento and its seaside villages, among which Torre San Giovanni stands out. Heading south you reach Torre Vado, where the water becomes shallow. If instead you start from the east, on the Adriatic coast, the first stop is the seaside villages of Tricase, such as Marina Serra, before reaching the coast of Gagliano del Capo.

The meeting point of east and west, and the southernmost point of Apulia, is Santa Maria di Leuca. Santa Maria di Leuca is a frazione (hamlet) of the municipality of Castrignano del Capo, in the province of Lecce. Although it is a small place, Santa Maria di Leuca is famous in its own right and draws thousands of visitors every year.

It is so well known that it has given its name to the whole area, which is known not only as Lower Salento but also as Capo di Leuca. But where does the name come from? Leuca comes from the Greek word “Leukos”, which means “lit by the sun”.

Santa Maria di Leuca is not just sea, sun and beaches. Over the centuries the village has drawn another kind of “tourism”: many popes have come here for various reasons, from Saint Peter, through the 4th century AD, down to the present day.

Their favorite destination, naturally, is the Basilica of Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae. “Finibus terrae” because Santa Maria di Leuca and the surrounding area were considered “the end of the world”, in a strictly geographical sense.

Other attractions add to the beauty of Santa Maria di Leuca, among them the lighthouse, the old harbor and the 19th-century villas.

These villas were built in different styles and add to the beauty of the view. Among the best known are Villa Fuortes, or Villa dei Misteri, so called because legends tell of ghosts haunting it, and Villa Meridiana, named after the sundial that dominates its facade. Sadly, many of these villas were badly damaged during World War II.

Next comes the Waterfall of Santa Maria di Leuca. Benito Mussolini had it built to celebrate the completion of the Acquedotto Pugliese, the Apulian aqueduct. The waterfall is flanked on both sides by two flights of stairs of 300 steps each. At their foot stands a monolithic Roman column.

Finally, Santa Maria di Leuca is famous for its caves. There are about 30 of them around Santa Maria di Leuca. They are karst caves, and their names are the fruit of human imagination. They fall into two groups: the Grotte di Levante (eastern caves) and the Grotte di Ponente (western caves).

The eastern caves include first of all the Grotte Cazzafri, full of stalactites, and the Grotta del Morigio. The latter takes its name from the Moors, who landed here to conquer Salento. It is also known as the Grotta degli Innamorati, the Lovers' Cave. This group also includes the Grotta delle Ciole (a dialect word for “crows”) and the Grotta di Ortocupo, where fresh water meets salt water.

The western caves, however, are the best known and most visited. Besides the Grotta del Presepe, whose stalactites recall a Nativity scene, there are the Grotta dei Giganti, the Grotta del Drago, the Grotta delle Tre Porte and finally the Grotta Porcinara. This is the largest cave and can also be reached from land. Many archaeological remains have been found inside it, suggesting that it was once used as a place of worship.

One last wonder is the Grotta del Diavolo, the Devil's Cave. It owes its name to the noises once heard coming from inside, which were blamed on the devil himself.

The area around Santa Maria di Leuca and its golden beaches is just as beautiful: the Marine di Felloniche, an upscale spot for relaxing and having fun, Torre Vado, with more than a kilometer of seafront, the Marina di Pescoluse and the Maldives of Salento.

These beaches, like all the beaches of Salento, share one essential feature: the coastal watchtowers. They were built at the behest of Charles V to serve as lookout and control posts in case enemies arrived from the sea, above all the Saracens. To name a few: Torre Mozza, Torre San Giovanni and the Torre dell'Omomorto (“dead man's tower”) at Santa Maria di Leuca, so called because human bones were found inside it.

Santa Maria di Leuca and its coast also mean events and plenty of food. As for events, there is the feast of August 15, which celebrates Saint Mary with processions and fireworks by the sea. There are also events for a younger crowd, in the many beach clubs.

And finally, the food. Fish reigns on the tables of the masserie (farmhouses), the restaurants and the locals' homes. You are spoiled for choice among mixed fried fish, fish “pettole” and fresh pasta alla pescatora. Don't forget Salento's typical pastries either, the “pasticciotti”, filled with pastry cream.

Food festivals, beaches, sea and lots and lots of sun to brighten every day. All this and much more is Santa Maria di Leuca.