You could call it a little gem, this fortified village nestled against the rocky headland that closes off the western side of the Gulf of Poets. Rising above water tinted by the reflections of its houses (the “Palazzata”), it has always drawn travelers and poets, a romantic place par excellence.
If you are in love or looking for love, Portovenere will enchant you even more with its charming corners and breathtaking views, which you can admire from the sea on a boat trip or by wandering the narrow alleys (“carruggi”) that wind through the medieval village. For its perfect blend of natural, scenic, historical and architectural beauty, Portovenere, together with the Cinque Terre, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
History lovers can travel back thousands of years here, from the prehistoric finds in the caves of Palmaria Island to churches that blend Romanesque and Gothic, all the way to the 19th-century fortifications. The settlement seems to date back to the Ligurian people, around the 6th century BC, but the first historical records are from Roman times (2nd century AD), which mention a village between the better-known Sestri Levante and Luni.
The oldest settlement, whose remains were found under today’s Piazzale Spallanzani, was a small fishing community that the Lombards destroyed completely in the 7th century AD, after it had become a base for the Byzantine fleet. Genoa took over the village in the 12th century and held it until Napoleon’s conquests; it was then annexed to the Kingdom of Sardinia and, in 1861, to the Kingdom of Italy.
If you can, arrive in Portovenere by sea on the evening of August 17, the feast of the Madonna Bianca. On that night the village is lit by the warm glow of 6,000 candles, which turn it into an unforgettable sight!
If you love good Ligurian cooking based on fish, fried seafood and soups, don’t miss the traditional Sagra del Polpo (octopus festival), held on September 8 in the small village of Le Grazie for the feast of the Madonna, patron saint of the gulf. September 13 and the following Sunday are the only days of the year when Tino Island is open to visitors.
If you are in love or looking for love, Portovenere will enchant you even more with its charming corners and breathtaking views, which you can admire from the sea on a boat trip or by wandering the narrow alleys (“carruggi”) that wind through the medieval village. For its perfect blend of natural, scenic, historical and architectural beauty, Portovenere, together with the Cinque Terre, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
History lovers can travel back thousands of years here, from the prehistoric finds in the caves of Palmaria Island to churches that blend Romanesque and Gothic, all the way to the 19th-century fortifications. The settlement seems to date back to the Ligurian people, around the 6th century BC, but the first historical records are from Roman times (2nd century AD), which mention a village between the better-known Sestri Levante and Luni.
The oldest settlement, whose remains were found under today’s Piazzale Spallanzani, was a small fishing community that the Lombards destroyed completely in the 7th century AD, after it had become a base for the Byzantine fleet. Genoa took over the village in the 12th century and held it until Napoleon’s conquests; it was then annexed to the Kingdom of Sardinia and, in 1861, to the Kingdom of Italy.
If you can, arrive in Portovenere by sea on the evening of August 17, the feast of the Madonna Bianca. On that night the village is lit by the warm glow of 6,000 candles, which turn it into an unforgettable sight!
If you love good Ligurian cooking based on fish, fried seafood and soups, don’t miss the traditional Sagra del Polpo (octopus festival), held on September 8 in the small village of Le Grazie for the feast of the Madonna, patron saint of the gulf. September 13 and the following Sunday are the only days of the year when Tino Island is open to visitors.
Book ahead
Portovenere tours
What to see in Portovenere
What to see in Portovenere
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You can not leave Portovenere without visiting The church of San Pietro on the top of the promontory, in a picturesque and romantic setting. The basilica, built on the ruins of an existing building (perhaps a temple dedicated to Venus…
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Palmaria is the largest island of Liguria and can be reached in 10 minutes by public and private ferries that depart from the pier in Portovenere. Besides the beaches with crystal clear water, the island is famous for a vast network of…
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The "Palazzata"is characteristic of Portovenere, it's a row of tall and colored houses built close to the rock, clearly visible from the pier of the marina (the "Calata"). From here, a system of stairways, the "capitoli", will put you in…
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Taking one of the boats that depart from the "Calata", you can do the charming tour of three islands: Tino, Tinetto and Palmaria. The tour takes 40 minutes and allows you to circumnavigate the small archipelago of the Regional Natural…
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Built for wish of the Genoese, the church of San Lorenzo was consecrated by Pope Innocent III in 1130. Over time to the Romanesque system were added a series of remakes: the adaptation of the facade to the Gothic style with the division…
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Walking down the steps lining the north walls, you come to the imposing fortress built by the Genoese in 1162 and almost totally rebuilt in 1453. The complex, with irregular plan, is the result of the integration of two overlapping…
1Basilica di San Pietro
You can not leave Portovenere without visiting The church of San Pietro on the top of the promontory, in a picturesque and romantic setting. The basilica, built on the ruins of an existing building (perhaps a temple dedicated to Venus Ericina, hence the name Porto Venere) is the result of the integration of a first early Christian church and the thirteenth-century Gothic church. The semicircular apse of the older church, built with black marble of island Palmaria, is recognizable on the right side of the perimeter wall, the most recent church is characterized by alternating black and white stripes, two-tone typical of the Gothic - Genoese that is also found inside where the buildings are connected by two round arches. In 1494 the church suffered heavy damage made by the Aragonese. In the Napoleonic era, by now disfigured, was used as a political prison. Restored during Fascism, now retains all its charm standing out like a beacon on the horizon, precipitous between sky and sea.
Address
Piazza Spallanzani, Lungo Calata Doria, Portovenere (SP)
Piazza Spallanzani, Lungo Calata Doria, Portovenere (SP)
2Isola Palmaria
Palmaria is the largest island of Liguria and can be reached in 10 minutes by public and private ferries that depart from the pier in Portovenere. Besides the beaches with crystal clear water, the island is famous for a vast network of trails that allow you to walk around it fully (2.5 hours, the estimated time for the full tour) through both areas of unspoilt nature, and caves, and the two villages of Terrizzo and Pozzale. The view of Portovenere and of the Gulf from the summit of the island is really suggestive. The island also hosts three castles of the nineteenth century: Forte Cavour, Forte Umberto I and the Batteria del semaforo. The forts are visible only from the outside because they do not open to the public.
Opening hours
The hours vary depending on the connections of the seasons, see the relevant page of the City of Portovenere.
The hours vary depending on the connections of the seasons, see the relevant page of the City of Portovenere.
Tickets and prices
The one-way ticket costs 2€.
The one-way ticket costs 2€.
Official website
www.comune.portovenere.sp.it
www.comune.portovenere.sp.it
3Palazzata, borgo e porta medievale
The "Palazzata"is characteristic of Portovenere, it's a row of tall and colored houses built close to the rock, clearly visible from the pier of the marina (the "Calata"). From here, a system of stairways, the "capitoli", will put you in the alley of Via Capellini, the main axis of the historic center full of shops, restaurants and where you can taste and buy typical products of Liguria. On the eastern limit of the road you will find the well-preserved medieval gate (dating original is written in the "Cologne Januensis 1113") and surmounted by the towered coat of arms of the city, while below, remain the signs in the marble used to measure the wine and grains. To the left of the door, along the walls, you can see the Tower Chapter House made of ashlar. Returning to Via Capellini you can advance in the village taking the different lanes that will make you walk in the medieval system of the village and discover interesting corners. Do not worry about getting lost...all roads go back to the sea!
Address
Lungo molo, via Capellini e dintorni, Portovenere (SP)
Lungo molo, via Capellini e dintorni, Portovenere (SP)
4Giro delle Isole Tino, Tinetto, Palmaria
Taking one of the boats that depart from the "Calata", you can do the charming tour of three islands: Tino, Tinetto and Palmaria. The tour takes 40 minutes and allows you to circumnavigate the small archipelago of the Regional Natural Park of Porto Venere admiring the Mediterranean nature and the numerous caves that are open to the sea (only 36 are those of Palmaria!): among the most famous the Grotta Azzurra (Blue Cave), the Grotta dei Colombi (Cave of the Doves), with prehistoric finds, the Grotta Arpaia (also known as Byron) immediately beneath the church of San Pietro. On the island of Tino, now a military zone closed to the public, stands a beautiful lighthouse and are visible the ruins of the Benedictine abbey of San Venerio built in the eleventh century. On Tinetto you can see the ruins of a monastery of the sixth century.
Opening hours
The service is available from April to October. Warning: the island of Tino is open to visitors only September 13th and the following Sunday, on the feast of San Venerio.
The service is available from April to October. Warning: the island of Tino is open to visitors only September 13th and the following Sunday, on the feast of San Venerio.
Tickets and prices
The cost of the ticket is €10, reduced €6 for children 6 to 11 years, free under 6 years. If purchased together with route Portovenere-Cinque Terre (€20), the Tour of the Islands is free.
The cost of the ticket is €10, reduced €6 for children 6 to 11 years, free under 6 years. If purchased together with route Portovenere-Cinque Terre (€20), the Tour of the Islands is free.
Address
Partenze dal molo di Portovenere
Partenze dal molo di Portovenere
5Chiesa di San Lorenzo
Built for wish of the Genoese, the church of San Lorenzo was consecrated by Pope Innocent III in 1130. Over time to the Romanesque system were added a series of remakes: the adaptation of the facade to the Gothic style with the division into horizontal bands of white marble and blacks, and the redefinition of the central door, framed by twisted columns and a lunette carved in bas-relief with the martyrdom of San Lorenzo (St. Lawrence). In the sacristy can be visited the sacred art museum with a collection of jewelry, paintings or religious objects of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries.
Address
Piazzale della Chiesa di San Lorenzo, Portovenere (SP)
Piazzale della Chiesa di San Lorenzo, Portovenere (SP)
6Castello Doria
Walking down the steps lining the north walls, you come to the imposing fortress built by the Genoese in 1162 and almost totally rebuilt in 1453. The complex, with irregular plan, is the result of the integration of two overlapping buildings and several refurbishments, to the latest bastions of the seventeenth century. Inside there are the Sala Ipostila with ceiling vaults supported by massive stone columns, and the Captain's House, the highest body of the building, where lived the warden or "Capitano del popolo" (Leader of the people). Through a side terrace you can access the walkway that overlooks the sea, see the louvers for muskets that were the defense system outside of the castle and admire the circular tower equipped with sentry box that housed the sentry post on duty. In the Napoleonic era, the fortress was used as a political prison.
Opening hours
Friday, Saturday and Sunday all day from 11 to 18, opening hours from Monday to Thursday 10:00 to 13:00 and 14:00 to 17:00.
Friday, Saturday and Sunday all day from 11 to 18, opening hours from Monday to Thursday 10:00 to 13:00 and 14:00 to 17:00.
Tickets and prices
Full ticket €3; small children , students, and over 65 €2; free under 8 years old.
Full ticket €3; small children , students, and over 65 €2; free under 8 years old.
Address
Salita Castello, Portovenere (SP)
Salita Castello, Portovenere (SP)
How to get to Portovenere
By train
Portovenere has no train station. Go to La Spezia Centrale station, then take the bus or, if you feel like a nice walk, go on foot (about 1 hour). La Spezia Centrale is on the Turin–Genoa–Rome, Bologna–Parma–Genoa, Florence–Pisa–Genoa and Milan–Genoa–Pisa lines.
Timetables and tickets
By bus
From La Spezia you can reach Portovenere by bus, leaving from Viale Garibaldi if you are near the train station, or from Piazza Verdi and Via Chiodo near the long pier, every 10–30 minutes. On Saturday, Sunday and holiday evenings (after 8 p.m.) there is one bus an hour. The ride, not recommended if you get carsick, takes about 30 minutes.
Bus hours: weekdays 5 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.; Saturdays and holidays 7 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.; December 25–26 and January 1, 8 a.m.–12 p.m. and 3–8 p.m. You can buy tickets at tobacco shops, at ATC ticket outlets or from ticket machines (by entering the code “03”) for €2.50 one way. Watch out: if you buy your ticket on board, the price doubles! If you want to leave from Sarzana, check the timetable; the fare is €3.50 one way.
Timetables and tickets
Bus hours: weekdays 5 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.; Saturdays and holidays 7 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.; December 25–26 and January 1, 8 a.m.–12 p.m. and 3–8 p.m. You can buy tickets at tobacco shops, at ATC ticket outlets or from ticket machines (by entering the code “03”) for €2.50 one way. Watch out: if you buy your ticket on board, the price doubles! If you want to leave from Sarzana, check the timetable; the fare is €3.50 one way.
By car
Whether you are coming from Genoa (A12 highway), Parma (A15) or Pisa (A12), exit at Santo Stefano di Magra; from Via Carducci, continue for about 15 km toward Portovenere. With few parking spaces (all paid, hotel ones included) and a very narrow, winding road, it is best to leave your car in La Spezia. The city’s many parking lots offer a free shuttle to the bus stops, from where buses take you to Portovenere in 30 minutes.
By boat
Ferries to Portovenere leave from the landings in La Spezia and from the Cinque Terre villages. You can check up-to-date timetables, routes and fares directly on the website of the Golfo dei Poeti ferry company. If you leave from La Spezia, the landing is about a 15-minute walk from the train station; tickets cost €4 one way and €7 round trip (with a €3–5 surcharge on Sundays and holidays).
If you leave from Levanto or Riomaggiore, the ticket, which includes a tour of the islands, costs €25 and €22 respectively (with a €3–5 surcharge on Sundays and holidays). Remember: the coast itself is a sight to behold, so grab a seat on the east side!
Timetables and tickets
If you leave from Levanto or Riomaggiore, the ticket, which includes a tour of the islands, costs €25 and €22 respectively (with a €3–5 surcharge on Sundays and holidays). Remember: the coast itself is a sight to behold, so grab a seat on the east side!
Where to eat in Portovenere
Portivene - Un Mare di Sapori
Small restaurant in a nautical style that overlooks the main alley of the village. Besides the fish dishes, house specialties are the typical Ligurian recipes such as soup of farro, chickpeas and cannellini beans (“mesciua”) and the "farinata" of chickpeas originally served with basil pesto and soft cheese. The restaurant has not wine list and serves only excellent local wines.
Via Capellini 94/98, Portovenere (SP) · (+39) 0187 792722
Ristorante La Chiglia
Family-run trattoria where you can discover the tastes of tradition. The food is homemade and offers dishes with a touch of originality and creativity (try the soup with nettles!). Excellent appetizers.
Via dell'Olivo 317, Portovenere (SP) · (+39) 0187 792179
Ristorante Della Baia
Overlooking the harbor of the “Baia delle Grazie”, offers light cuisine based on fresh fish, specialty of the house are the 10 samples of appetizers, the grilled fish at the table on the traditional Ligurian stone ("ciappa") and squid with pistachios.
Via lungomare Est 111, Le Grazie, Portovenere (SP) · (+39) 0187 790797
Il Gambero
Open for lunch and dinner, offers menus that change depending on seasonal ingredients. The food is a mix between traditional kitchen and the creativity and imagination of the owners, with a menu of seafood and delicious desserts paired with local wines.
Via della Libertà 143, Le Grazie, Portovenere (SP) · (+39) 0187 798023
Tips
As in every Ligurian town, we don’t recommend visiting Portovenere in stilettos! Flat, comfortable shoes will let you tackle the ups and downs of the carruggi without too much effort. If you are traveling with babies or very young children, bring a baby carrier or backpack rather than a stroller, which is harder to handle on the stairs of some alleys.
If you love long walks, don’t miss the scenic Sentiero Azzurro, which links the villages of the Cinque Terre, or the trail from Portovenere to Riomaggiore (about 4 hours).
If you love long walks, don’t miss the scenic Sentiero Azzurro, which links the villages of the Cinque Terre, or the trail from Portovenere to Riomaggiore (about 4 hours).
Book ahead
Tours to Portovenere
Cinque Terre and Portovenere Full-Day Boat Tour, Max 12 Guests
5.0 (450) · 7.5 h
from €1,904.49
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Portovenere Boat Trip from La Spezia Past Three Islands
4.8 (437) · 1.5–2.5 h
from €77.30
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La Spezia: Sunset in Portovenere with wine, music & Focaccia
5.0 (151) · 3–4 h
from €95.22
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From Fezzano: Portovenere & Gulf of Poets Half-Day Boat Tour
4.9 (117) · 4 h
from €100.83
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