Oltrepò Pavese

The Oltrepò Pavese is a strip of Lombardy that slips in between Emilia-Romagna and Piedmont and just touches Liguria.

This triangle of land, which tradition likens to a bunch of grapes in tribute to the product the local economy rests on, is bounded to the north by the Po, which separates it from the rest of the province of Pavia, while to the west it borders the province of Alessandria and to the east that of Piacenza.

Seen from some of its peaks, such as Monte Penice, Monte Chiappo (1,700 m) and Monte Lesima (1,724 m), it takes on a captivating look, and the eye can roam over breathtaking landscapes. From the summits, natural terraces over the Po Valley, you can also make out the Ortles-Cevedale group, almost as far as the Dolomites, the Apennines with the Apuan Alps, and in the distance the mountains of the Valle Staffora looking out over the Gulf of Genoa.

The Oltrepò Pavese is a treasure chest of precious natural beauty. Its seventy-eight municipalities have a rich and varied historical, artistic and architectural heritage. There are lovely medieval and Renaissance villages such as Cecima, Cicognola, Fortunago, Montalto Pavese and Montesegale; holy places such as the 16th-century collegiate church of Broni; and Romanesque churches such as the Abbey of Sant'Alberto di Butrio, the Collegiata di San Pietro Martire in Casteggio and the Pieve di San Zaccaria in Varzi.

Just as fascinating are the villages perched on hilltops and mountaintops, founded in the Middle Ages, which still keep their typical feudal layout, with the castle and the houses clustered tightly around it.

Shining examples of medieval history are the castles of Montalto Pavese and Fortunago, still splendidly majestic with their well-preserved walls and towers; also interesting are the castles of Romagnese, Zavattarello, Bagnaria, with the remains of the tower rising above the old Doria fortress, and Godiasco.

Throughout the area you can find buildings and works that belonged to the four noble families who divided it among themselves: the Malaspina, Dal Verme, Beccaria and Visconti. The area was long governed by the Duchy of Milan, then by the House of Savoy, and finally, in 1860, with the Unification of Italy, the Oltrepò returned to the province of Pavia.

This southern part of the province of Pavia is mostly hilly and mountainous, with only a small stretch of plain. The hills rarely rise above 600 meters: the climate is fairly dry in winter and breezy in summer, ideal conditions for growing vines, introduced by the Etruscans in 600 BC and already documented in Roman times by Pliny the Elder, Strabo and Columella.

The huge importance of wine in the local economy also shows in the great number of agriturismi, restaurants and, above all, wineries throughout the area. Row upon row of vines shape the landscape and yield full-bodied wines with famous names such as Barbera and Bonarda, but also Buttafuoco, Sangue di Giuda, Pinot Nero, Pinot Grigio, Riesling Italico, Cortese, Moscato and Malvasia.

Plenty of room is left for pastures where cows and goats are raised, whose milk goes into flavorful cheeses such as siras, a kind of sheep's milk ricotta; furmag cui saltarei, an aged cow's milk cheese with worms; the sharp Nisso di Menconico, made from cow's and sheep's milk; and upland cheeses similar to Piedmont's tome.

There is also a wide choice of cured meats: Salame di Varzi, cacciatorino, cotechino, coppa and pancetta. All these wholesome products are the basis of the local cooking, rooted in the oldest traditions of the surrounding areas. Typical dishes include bollito misto, mostarda di Voghera, bagnet, a sweet pepper sauce, and Dolcebrusco, a sauce made with sugar, vinegar, egg yolk, chicken livers and sometimes herring and capers.

The woods are naturally full of porcini, Caesar's mushrooms and white and black truffles, while the orchards yield delicious fruit such as Volpedo peaches and Soriasco apples.

Among the events that mark the area's cultural life, worth a visit are the Torneo del Salame di Varzi, Pavia Wine in early summer, Mille Bolle sul Ponte Coperto for sparkling wine lovers, the Sagra del Fungo mushroom festival held in September in Zavattarello, and Cantine Aperte (open wineries) during the grape harvest.

The area also offers lots of outings for hikers and mountain bikers. Motorcycle tourists and experienced cyclists will find plenty of routes to suit them, such as the Mulini della Val Curone itinerary, the Voghera–Salice Terme–Fortunago loop and the Val Verde route.