Piacenza's Hills

Up against the northern slopes of the Ligurian Apennines, among green hills quilted with vineyards, winds the land of the Colli Piacentini, the Piacenza Hills. This land between mountains and plain takes in Piacenza's four main valleys: Val Tidone, with its farmland, vineyards and castles; Val Trebbia, steeped in history; Val Nure, marked by its old mines; and Val d'Arda, with its medieval villages, its unmistakable Romanesque style and its beautiful natural scenery.

This small patch of land holds some 400 castles and old fortifications, each with its own history, legends and charm, and each a precious example of Italian architecture of medieval origin.

Scattered across the hills, perched on hilltops or stretched out across the plain, Piacenza's medieval villages are very well preserved and true gems: Bobbio, Castell'Arquato, Grazzano Visconti, Piacenza, Rivalta a Trebbia, Travo, Sarmato, Vigoleno and Vigolo Marchese. Some of them are listed among the most beautiful villages in Italy.

Coming down from the Apennines toward the hills, you'll find Bobbio, a small mountain town in the valley of the Trebbia River. Toward the border with the province of Parma, among the gentle slopes of Val d'Arda, lies Castell'Arquato, a romantic and evocative example of medieval architecture, and finally Vigoleno, a fortified village of elegant, precious beauty.

As you travel through the area, you'll also come across other places rich in history and culture: the Roman ruins of Veleia, of great archaeological value; the castle of Gropparello, home of Italy's first “emotional park”; the square of Grazzano Visconti with the sign of the Biscione, the Visconti serpent; the art town of Cortemaggiore, an important Renaissance center; and the village of Monticelli d'Ongina.

In this web of valleys, chestnut and broadleaf woods thrive, the perfect setting for walks, bike rides and horseback rides, made possible by a climate that stays mild even in late fall and early winter. For mountain hikers, the climbs to Passo Penice, Passo Pellizzone, Nibbiano and Zavattarello are an excellent goal, not least for the incredible views they offer over the area.

The climb to Monte Bue is pleasant too, one of hikers' favorite destinations; from there you can reach Lago Nero, Monte Nero and Monte Maggiorasca. Even in winter, the area knows how to charm visitors, with the slopes of Monte Penice and Ceci Le Vallette, known for cross-country skiing, with a loop trail almost 10 km long.

Besides the enchanting scenery and medieval buildings, there are plenty of places to eat and stay where you can enjoy local products. The undisputed specialties are cured meats such as coppa, salami and pancetta piacentina, but also several kinds of honey, fresh pasta, jams and cheeses, served with “burtleina,” a kind of fried flatbread made with flour, water and salt.

Then there's the produce of the land: mushrooms, truffles, potatoes, tomatoes and fruit. The country dishes made with beef and lamb are hearty and full of flavor. Drawing on rural tradition, the cooking still rises to the very highest levels, boldly mingling with the cuisine of Piacenza's old noble families.

Excellent dishes include marubini, egg pasta filled with braised beef and roast veal and pork; maccheroni alla bobbiese, dressed with stracotto (pot-roast) sauce; büṡéca, or Piacenza-style tripe; chestnut-flour tortelli; chickpea soup; and turtlìt, or turtei ad San Giüṡep, the sweet tortelli made for Carnival.

In the fall, local restaurants serve stewed snails, made to a traditional local recipe. A peculiarity of the local cuisine is the use of horse and donkey meat, which was always easy to find, since Piacenza has long been an important military outpost.

The area is also rich in wine, with many DOC wines such as the white Ortrugo and the red Gutturnio. The best way to fall under the spell of this land's surprising beauty is to drive through it along the road that links Piacenza's valleys, also known as the Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori (Piacenza Food Valley). Food and wine lovers can drive past vineyards of Gutturnio, Malvasia, Monterosso, Trebbianino and Vin Santo.

The food and wine festivals are interesting and delicious, such as the Mostra Mercato del Fungo e del Tartufo, a mushroom and truffle fair (October); the Sagra della Lumaca, the snail festival (December); the Festa della Coppa in Carpaneto Piacentino, first held in 1952 and now every year on the first Sunday of September; and, finally, Cantine Aperte (Open Cellars) in the province of Piacenza.